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Kodalikaruppur

Coromandel textile craftsmanship. Created in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, they are renowned for their intricate artistry, vibrant natural dyes, and the elegant fusion of finely woven Jamdani with muted gold zari. Today, they are preserved in museum collections, symbolising India’s rich cultural heritage.

Crafting these saris required exceptional skill. Artisans combined resist-dyeing and mordant painting techniques, with each piece undergoing multiple cycles of dyeing, boiling, and washing. The waters near Karuppur and surrounding villages were integral to this meticulous process. Though named after Karuppur, production likely spanned other villages in the Ariyalur, Tanjore, and Nagapattinam districts.

The British annexation of Tanjore in 1855 ended royal patronage, leading to the decline of this tradition. While only remnants, such as an indigo aeration tank in Karuppur, remain today, Kodalikaruppur saris continue to inspire as timeless symbols of Coromandel’s storied past

Masterful Craftsmanship

The creation of Kodalikaruppur saris was a meticulous process requiring exceptional craftsmanship. Artisans used a combination of resist-dyeing and mordant painting on finely woven Jamdani fabric to achieve intricate designs. Each sari underwent multiple rounds of boiling, washing, and dyeing, ensuring vibrant and enduring colours from natural dyes. The picture on the right shows the starting stage after multiple rounds of discussions and dedicated efforts, marking the beginning of this intricate and labor-intensive journey.

The delicate Jamdani weave and gold zari threads in Kodalikaruppur saris had to retain their integrity through the intricate scoring and resist-dyeing process. Multiple cycles of natural dyeing, boiling, and washing were meticulously executed to achieve vibrant colours while preserving the textile and zari intact. 
 Hand-drawing and resist-dyeing is a meticulous method where shades and patterns are developed through successive stages of painting and dyeing, with carefully applied resist materials protecting certain areas from absorbing color. Using natural dyes in this process adds to the complexity and charm, enhancing the richness and character of Kodalikaruppur saris.

Mordant printing, an alternative to handpainting, involves applying mordants to fabric to create patterns. While it presents a challenge when printing on fabric with metallic threads and unevenly expanding fibers, it is still considered somewhat easier compared to the intricate resist-dyeing process.

After painting or printing, the saree is washed in flowing water to remove excess dyes. The natural dyes yield muted, earthy tones, while the shine of the gold zari is softened as the intertwined cotton threads absorb the color, creating a unique, harmonious aesthetic